Penang Punch
By Sharon Soh
UOB Ala Carte Series
Easy Streats Weekender, 3 Jul 2003
FEW restaurants can lay claim to being able to sustain
high standards over the years. Which is why the moment we find one
such restaurant, we quickly classify it under the visit frequently
list, convinced that good food is assured every time we patronise
the joint.
Such is the case with the ever-popular Princess Terrace
coffee house, famous since the 70s for its authentic Penang Buffet.
Late last year, the restaurant was renovated to unveil
a new contemporary look. Its open-kitchen concept, stylish wall
panelling and mood lighting, juxtaposed with exquisite Straits Chinese
ornaments and artefacts, create ambience that is cosy yet modern.
More recently, the restaurant welcomed aboard a new
Penang-born chef, Loh Hong Chye. He arrived from Shangri-La Hotel
Penang where he had been working the past 15 years.
When asked what hometown food he most misses, the
47-year-old father of three grown-up daughters and an avid marathon
runner - he was once among Penang's top 10 long-distance runners
- replied: mee jawa, a noodle dish fried with seafood, chilli and
tomato sauce.
When I visited the restaurant recently, I was relieved
that the buffet spread looked the same as before.
The
bee hoon kerabu (dry bee hoon with coconut, chilli and lime), parcels
of otah, mini packs of nasi lemak and peppery pig's stomach soup
were all there, as were firm favourites Penang laksa, Penang fried
kway teow, Hokkien mee soup, well-marinated satay and the ultra-smooth
soy beancurd.
Chef Loh added several new items to the spread including
fried five-spiced pork, kiam chye duck soup, lamb stew cooked with
fermented beancurd and chai boey (salted vegetable stew). I tasted
the latter, and found it fragrant and deliciously garlicky - dousing
it over plain rice is highly recommended!
The Penang laksa still packs a punch with its hot
and sour fish stock, scented with mint leaves and shreds of ginger
flower.
For dessert, take your pick from the selection of
bite-sized Nonya kueh-kueh, or pour yourself a bowl of freshly made
soy beancurd or bubur hitam (black glutinous rice sweet soup).
If you can't get enough of the kueh-kueh at the buffet
spread, you can take them home from the cake and pastry counter.
Western-style cakes and savoury pies are also available, namely
strawberry short cake, chocolate truffle cake and chicken pie.
The buffet is priced at$26+++ per adult and $18+++
per child.
Princess Terrace is located at Copthorne King's Hotel,
Level 1, 403 Havelock Road. Tel: 6318 3168. Opening hours (DAILY):
Lunch - 11.30am to 2.30pm, Dinner - 6.30pm to 10pm.
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