For Ladies Who Lunch
By Sharon Soh
UOB Ala Carte Series
Easy Streats Weekender, 19 Jun 2003
EVEN in bad times, we girls need a little pampering
to get our endorphins going and make ourselves feel good.
Handcrafted chocolates, massages and champagne are
usually high on the list.
Now, add one more worthy indulgence: Ladies' Kaiseki
at Restaurant Suntory.
Since its reopening at Hotel Inter-Continental (it
was formerly at Delfi Orchard), the restaurant has been drawing
a consistent stream of diners to its welcoming and stylishly unfinished-looking
interior, fashioned out of Japanese wood, bamboo and stone.
The Ladies' Kaiseki menu, available for lunch daily,
has been a hit since it was first introduced over a year ago.
It isn't difficult to see why. Despite a reputation
for being expensive, Suntory has priced the menu at $38+++ a person.
You get eight courses - including appetiser, soup,
sashimi, simmered dish and sushi.
They are so beautifully presented that you would think
they had just fluttered out from the pages of Gourmet Traveller.
Also, no run-of-the-mill dishes randomly pulled out
from the main a la carte menu here.
The
menu is seasonal, and each course complements the next. Hence, an
obviously summer feel to the dishes I sampled a few weeks ago.
A well-chilled beancurd, speckled with red bean,
made an apt and much-appreciated starter, given the sweltering weather.
A cold shower of the gentlest soya sauce dressing
was all it took to give the sweetish tofu an edge.
With our palates duly assuaged, we were ready for
more.
As if to break the calm that the starter gave, the
next dish was a warm fish soup, suffused with a dense, smoky aroma
(proof that top quality bonito blocks were used to make the stock).
In the soup, a slice of red snapper sits preciously
on a lock of noodles, looking like a bejewelled pin securing a chignon.
Slivers of seabass sashimi on a bed of shaved ice
followed, accompanied by a refreshing plum soya sauce.
This sequence of cold-hot-cold dishes, plus the degree
of aesthetics lavished on food presentation, ensured that our palates
were constantly piqued.
I also sampled a simmered dish of chilled yam, octopus,
pumpkin and eggplant (one taste, different textures); deep-fried
minced crabmeat wrapped in soya skin, with a little mound of grated
radish, spiked orangey with chilli paste, on the side; a trio of
sushi, the fish lightly seared and still raw in middle, polished
off with a comforting bowl of miso soup.
All were commendable in their own ways, but the dish
that drew most wows at my table was the Specialty Selection - actually
a composition of six different morsels on a platter.
I won't spoil the surprise by divulging more, save
to highlight one item - a cherry made of a slice of raw salmon wrapped
around a little ball of egg yolk. Kawai-i! ('cute' in Japanese.)
The Ladies' Kaiseki menu changes every month and
undergoes a full overhaul at the start of each new season.
I've been told that the upcoming autumn menu promises
to be another spectacular treat, so no prizes for guessing where
I'm headed the next time I have a craving for kaiseki.
Restaurant Suntory is located on the lobby level of
Inter-Continental Singapore, 80 Middle Road, Bugis Junction.
For reservations, call 64311064. Opening hours: Lunch
- noon to 2.30pm, dinner - 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Sunday.
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