Firm But Delicate Touch
By Amy Van
UOB Ala Carte Series
Easy Streats Weekender, 27 Nov 2003
STAYING in control in the kitchen is one of the priorities
for the female chef at this Asian restaurant.
Mai Lan Huong, the Vietnamese chef of Chijmes' Viet
Lang, said that she must possess energy, stamina and a strong spirit
to handle any difficulties she encounters.
Huong, who has 24 years' culinary experience and joined
the restaurant when it opened in August last year, noted that to
manage the kitchen, she must understand problems that occur and
swiftly control them.
"In fact, my nickname is Tiger," she said
with a laugh.
But building a close-knit rapport with her colleagues
is important, too.
"I must be firm with them in aspects such as
kitchen safety and correct cutting techniques."
The chef from Ho Chin Minh City added that she must
have good memory, work fast and recognise her responsibilities.
To her, Vietnamese cuisine should be considered natural
and fresh.
The
restaurant, which serves typical Vietnamese regional specialties,
imports most of its condiments from Vietnam, with Huong adding that
Vietnamese shrimp paste, chilli sauce, fish sauce and soya sauce
taste different from other Asian brands.
She said: "Our fish sauce is made from anchovies
that impart a natural, sweet flavour, whereas Thai fish sauce is
sweeter and saltier because of the sugar and salt content."
After tasting the light fish sauce served with cha
chon or deep-fried imperial roll with shrimp and minced pork stuffing,
the flavours that came through were indeed well-balanced and naturally
sweet. The dip also married nicely with the fresh green papaya,
mango and seafood salad.
As I was happily munching away, Huong highlighted
that when cooking her signature pho or beef noodle soup, the most
important thing is the stock.
Besides beef bones (the marrow is used, instead of
ribs), she includes spices such as anise and cinnamon into the stock.
She also adds sliced beef shin when cooking then tops the piping
hot soup with some raw beef sirloin before serving.
Her specialty claypot codfish was another success
at my table. Marinated with garlic, sugar, fish sauce and dark sauce
(derived from caramelising sugar till it turns dark and syrupy),
she adds spring onions, hot Vietnamese pepper and the quintessential
fish sauce.
After sampling some of Viet Lang's popular items,
I realise the extent to which the chef's personality and passion
is carved into her dishes.
"I hope to serve the best Vietnamese food in
Singapore. When my food is good and my customers are satisfied,
I'm happy," said the dynamic lady.
Viet Lang is at Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street, Block
A, #01-26/27. Tel: 6337-3379.
OPENING HOURS: 11.30am to 11.30pm (Sundays to Thursdays),
11.30am to 1am (Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of public holidays).
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