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Firm But Delicate Touch
By Amy Van
UOB Ala Carte Series
Easy Streats Weekender, 27 Nov 2003

STAYING in control in the kitchen is one of the priorities for the female chef at this Asian restaurant.

Mai Lan Huong, the Vietnamese chef of Chijmes' Viet Lang, said that she must possess energy, stamina and a strong spirit to handle any difficulties she encounters.

Huong, who has 24 years' culinary experience and joined the restaurant when it opened in August last year, noted that to manage the kitchen, she must understand problems that occur and swiftly control them.

"In fact, my nickname is Tiger," she said with a laugh.

But building a close-knit rapport with her colleagues is important, too.

"I must be firm with them in aspects such as kitchen safety and correct cutting techniques."

The chef from Ho Chin Minh City added that she must have good memory, work fast and recognise her responsibilities.

To her, Vietnamese cuisine should be considered natural and fresh.

The restaurant, which serves typical Vietnamese regional specialties, imports most of its condiments from Vietnam, with Huong adding that Vietnamese shrimp paste, chilli sauce, fish sauce and soya sauce taste different from other Asian brands.

She said: "Our fish sauce is made from anchovies that impart a natural, sweet flavour, whereas Thai fish sauce is sweeter and saltier because of the sugar and salt content."

After tasting the light fish sauce served with cha chon or deep-fried imperial roll with shrimp and minced pork stuffing, the flavours that came through were indeed well-balanced and naturally sweet. The dip also married nicely with the fresh green papaya, mango and seafood salad.

As I was happily munching away, Huong highlighted that when cooking her signature pho or beef noodle soup, the most important thing is the stock.

Besides beef bones (the marrow is used, instead of ribs), she includes spices such as anise and cinnamon into the stock. She also adds sliced beef shin when cooking then tops the piping hot soup with some raw beef sirloin before serving.

Her specialty claypot codfish was another success at my table. Marinated with garlic, sugar, fish sauce and dark sauce (derived from caramelising sugar till it turns dark and syrupy), she adds spring onions, hot Vietnamese pepper and the quintessential fish sauce.

After sampling some of Viet Lang's popular items, I realise the extent to which the chef's personality and passion is carved into her dishes.

"I hope to serve the best Vietnamese food in Singapore. When my food is good and my customers are satisfied, I'm happy," said the dynamic lady.

Viet Lang is at Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street, Block A, #01-26/27. Tel: 6337-3379.

OPENING HOURS: 11.30am to 11.30pm (Sundays to Thursdays), 11.30am to 1am (Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of public holidays).

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